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Javelin360 Profile
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Registered: 05-2009
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Yes/no decision to grade


Curious on your opinions on when to grade and not to grade a carded figure based on initial grade assessment. I know if we collect to enjoy and never plan to sell, there may be no real reason to grade except maybe for protection but then there are much cheaper ways to do that other than grading.

I was thinking something like this, don't grade if these are present:

Yellow bubble
creased anywhere
partially detached bubble
heavily rubbed edges
removed sticker mark
etc....

This is just a start I am sure. I know there can be exceptions, for example, a Cyborg with maybe one of these present may be worth grading and certainly, the severity matters.

Its a simple question but the answer can be quite complicated once it is given thought.

And thats what I would like to know, your thoughts! emoticon

Thanks!

My apologies if this was previously discussed.

Last edited by Javelin360, 4/3/2018, 1:59 pm
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symbebekos Profile
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Re: Yes/no decision to grade


I have my entire MOC collection graded, most of which I sent to AFA myself, and I certainly would (from bitter experience) look over any raw piece with a critical eye and pass them over for any flaw on your list - with the exception of the yellow bubble. The plastic of the bubble just yellows, period, and there's not much you can do about it - I have figures I had graded with clear bubbles that turned yellow inside the AFA case with minimal exposure to light.
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Johnny1378 Profile
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Re: Yes/no decision to grade


quote:

symbebekos wrote:

I have my entire MOC collection graded, most of which I sent to AFA myself, and I certainly would (from bitter experience) look over any raw piece with a critical eye and pass them over for any flaw on your list - with the exception of the yellow bubble. The plastic of the bubble just yellows, period, and there's not much you can do about it - I have figures I had graded with clear bubbles that turned yellow inside the AFA case with minimal exposure to light.



Yeah, you’re definitely right about the card bubbles. Frustrating but true. The ones in Canadian packages or series three figures on U.S. or Canadian cards seem to be especially bad about the bubbles yellowing. I have very few series one or two carded figures that have that issue, but unfortunately those seem to have been released on flimsier cards that tend to crease more easily. It’s a shame we couldn’t have had the Canadian/series 3 cardstock with the series 1 and 2 bubbles, but I’m sure when these were released, keeping them carded was the furthest thing from their minds.

Personally, I’ve only had 5 figures graded so far, but my approach was to send them the figures that I felt were in the best condition first. I would agree though not to focus on the yellowing bubbles as much as packages creases or tears, and obviously the condition of the figure itself (hopefully if it’s carded the figure inside is still mint, but sometimes weird things happen).
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pastadude Profile
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Re: Yes/no decision to grade


I think I only have 3 figures graded (all of which are loose) - 2 are for protection, and one is purely for sentimentality. I've always found that grading takes too long, is too expensive, and almost always causes issues.

For MOC/MIB stuff, it might be worth it for the protection, but don't expect the cases to do much more than good storage will.

-M
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aaron1050 Profile
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Re: Yes/no decision to grade


I also have my entire carded collection AFA-graded, but I think there are probably two things to consider.

First, it's whether you want to protect your carded figures in any sort of protective case.

I prefer the acrylic cases for display and protection. I think the acrylic cases display better -- with a flat-bottom that allows them to be displayed standing up-right on a flat surface. I also think they present a more clear presentation than a clambshell where the edges of the card are covered up at the seal. And obviously the protection is very important, whether storing away your figures (they stack easily) or if you handle them regularly.

With that in mind, you can get slide-bottom acrylic cases without the cost of grading fees or the time and hassle of going through the grading process with all of the packing, shipping and paperwork involved.

Secondly is whether to grade or not. I think for the Super Powers US production line, grading only really adds to the value of your carded figures if they are in high-grade. If your carded figure has some of the condition flaws like you describe, then it would probably grade low and an AFA grade isn't really going to command much of a premium over the figure if it was ungraded, especially when you factor in the grading fees you would have had to spend.

There are exceptions of course. If you have one of the rare foreign issues like a Captain Ray or the Riddler or if you have one of the rare 33-backs like a Red Tornado or Parademon. Then even if there are condition issues, the figure is already worth a premium regardless of condition, so it makes sense to have it authenticated and graded to add to and protect the value.

But for the most part, my feeling is unless you have a truly high-grade piece and/or high value rarity, a sliding-bottom acrylic case will do just fine.

Last edited by aaron1050, 5/1/2018, 7:27 pm
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nickinny Profile
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Re: Yes/no decision to grade


Concerning displaying figures & bubble yellowing:

 I would suggest eliminating any source of light other than LED light. LED bulbs emit almost zero ultra violet light. Other sources of light would speed up yellowing and discoloration. Unfortunately, bubble yellowing and other discoloration can also be due to uncontrollable chemical breakdown in the plastics.

Last edited by nickinny, 5/6/2018, 7:24 pm
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cyborg4 Profile
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Re: Yes/no decision to grade


my 33 back Superman has a yellow bubble but I still want it graded
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